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Journeys

Cultoon Stone Circle

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A Standing Stone above Finlaggan. This ancient structure, along with other standing stones scattered across Islay, likely predates the medieval ruins on the Council Isle by a staggering two to three thousand years. It's intriguing to ponder the mysteries these stones hold. Recently, someone on Islay sparked a fascinating discussion about whether any of these standing stone groups align with the sun, as explored in an article about the Winter Solstice. I've come across several sites on Islay that are said to be connected with various astronomical events. Among these are the stone circle at Cultoon, the standing stones at Ballinaby, and the solitary standing stone at Finlaggan.

Islay is not just about its historical intrigue; it’s also a haven for whiskey lovers, boasting world-renowned distilleries. The island's rugged landscape, combined with its rich history, makes it a captivating destination for those with a taste for adventure and a love of the outdoors. Imagine wandering the rolling hills and stumbling upon these ancient stones, each whispering secrets of the past.

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Claggain Bay
Nestled on the east coast of Islay, this sheltered gem is a must-see for anyone seeking a bit of tranquility and natural beauty. The road to Claggain Bay is a journey in itself, offering a delightful mix of landscapes and scenic views. Along this route, you'll find three prominent distilleries, each offering tours and a chance to savor a dram of their finest. These are essential stops for any whisky enthusiast visiting Islay. Once you've passed the renowned Ardbeg distillery, the road narrows and hugs the coast, revealing sheltered bays where seals love to sunbathe. I once counted up to 27 seals sprawled across the rocks, basking in the warm sun. Just a little further down, history buffs can explore one of Islay's most fascinating historical sites: the Kildalton Church and Cross. This cross is a remarkable piece of history, standing at 2.7 meters tall and dating as far back as 800 AD. Its intricate design showcases influences from the Pictish, Irish, Northumbrian, and Celtic traditions. Continuing your journey, you'll stumble upon the stunning Claggain Bay. It's an idyllic, untouched sandy beach, scattered with colorful pebbles that invite exploration. Birdwatchers will find this spot particularly enchanting as various bird species seek refuge here. The views stretching toward Kintyre are nothing short of breathtaking. In my opinion, Claggain Bay is one of Scotland's most beautiful bays. On a sunny, windless day, park your car and take a moment to soak in the serenity. The peaceful surroundings and abundant wildlife make it a place you'll never want to leave. Islay offers more than just whisky; it's a sanctuary of natural wonders and historical treasures waiting to be explored.
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Saligo Bay
Just nine kilometers south of Sanaigmore Bay lies what many consider Islay's most stunning bay: Saligo Bay. To find this hidden gem, you'll need to pass through a gate situated midway between Machir and Ballinaby farms, just west of Loch Gorm. As you cross the dunes, keep an eye out for the playful rabbits that call this area home. Descending from the dunes, you'll be greeted by the breathtaking beach that makes Saligo Bay a photographer's paradise, especially during those magical Atlantic sunsets. One of the bay's unique features is the rock formation to the north, affectionately known as the "Sleeping Giant" by the locals. This natural landmark adds a touch of mystery and intrigue to the already captivating scenery. Once you've crossed the gate, it's just a short stroll over the dunes directly west toward the sea, leading you straight to the heart of Saligo Bay. Whether you're there to capture the incredible light or simply to enjoy a memorable walk along the shore, the experience is sure to be unforgettable. The light here is so exceptional that many claim it's the best in all of Scotland. However, do remember: this beach isn't safe for swimming due to strong currents, so admire its beauty from the shore. For those intrigued by the local wildlife, the area is also a haven for birdwatchers. You might spot rare species flitting among the dunes or hear the distant call of seabirds echoing across the bay. So pack your camera, bring your sense of adventure, and prepare for a truly enchanting experience at Saligo Bay.
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The Museum of Islay Life
The Islay Museums Trust, established in 1976 by the Islay Historic Works Group alongside the Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Islay, is a fascinating destination for any history enthusiast. A dedicated Management Committee, comprising Trustees who call the island home and other passionate locals, oversees its operations. That same year, the museum acquired its building, the former Free Church of Port Charlotte, for a mere token sum. This structure, once a crumbling relic, has been lovingly transformed into a hub of historical preservation. The museum's mission is to safeguard collections that capture Islay's rich history, advancing public education while preserving and enhancing these treasures. With around 2,000 diverse objects in its care, the museum has a thoughtful display policy. This approach allows for the rotation of items, ensuring fresh experiences for repeat visitors. It also dedicates space for themed exhibits, such as shipwrecks, the charming wee museum of childhood, and the intriguing Islay House: Upstairs and Downstairs. While wandering through the museum, take a moment to appreciate the unique architecture of the building itself. Its history as a church adds a layer of intrigue, offering a glimpse into the island's past beyond the exhibits. Plus, the museum's location in Port Charlotte provides a picturesque backdrop, perfect for a leisurely stroll along the coastline after your visit. Whether you're a history buff or just curious, the Islay Museums Trust promises an enriching journey through time.
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Bowmore Round Church
Nestled at the top of Bowmore's Main Street, the Round Church commands attention with its prime location. From this vantage point, it offers stunning views right down the center of Main Street, stretching all the way to the serene Loch Indaal. It's often hailed as Islay's most iconic structure, and aside from a few distilleries, that claim holds strong. Known officially as Kilarrow Parish Church, this architectural gem was constructed between 1767 and 1769 by Daniel Campbell of Shawfield and Islay. At that time, Campbell held ownership over the entirety of Islay. The following year, he embarked on a grand plan to expand the existing settlement of Bowmore into a thriving village. But let's be real, Campbell's motivations weren't entirely selfless. The new village was designed to boost rental income and clear out Kilarrow, the main settlement near Bridgend. This move conveniently made room to extend the gardens and grounds of Campbell's ancestral estate, Islay House. Some might argue that building the church was a strategic move to win over those being relocated from Kilarrow to the freshly planned village of Bowmore. Beyond its historical significance, the Round Church is a remarkable example of Georgian architecture. Its unique circular design is not just an aesthetic choice; local lore suggests it was built this way to ensure there were no corners for the devil to hide in. Visitors can appreciate the church's simple yet elegant interior, which retains much of its original character. Don't miss the chance to explore Bowmore itself, a charming village where the spirit of Islay comes alive through its lively pubs, welcoming locals, and the ever-present scent of sea air mingling with the faint aroma of whisky.
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Loch Gruinart
Loch Gruinart is truly one of the most breathtaking spots on Islay, offering panoramic views, fascinating wildlife, and a spectacle of thousands of geese during winter. From the nearby parking area, a trail meanders through a cozy woodland, providing lovely vistas over the loch and fantastic birdwatching opportunities. There's even a viewing platform to help you soak it all in. The RSPB Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve is nestled in the north-west of Islay, sprawling over 1,600 hectares. This nature reserve is unique because it hosts a working farm, the largest in-hand farming operation on any nature reserve in the UK, and possibly in Europe. No matter when you visit, there's always something to enjoy at the reserve. Many believe the most magical time to visit is October when barnacle and white-fronted geese return from Greenland for the winter in internationally significant numbers. During this time, brent geese and whooper swans also make a pit stop from Iceland, resting for a couple of days before continuing to Ireland. It's also a prime time for spotting birds of prey such as hen harriers, sparrowhawks, merlins, peregrines, and golden eagles. Redwings can be seen stripping rowan trees of their berries, while flocks of small birds feast on the autumn stubble. Meanwhile, choughs are busy rummaging through cowpats in search of dung-beetle larvae. Aside from birdwatching, the reserve offers scenic walking trails that weave through diverse landscapes. Whether you're a seasoned ornithologist or just someone who loves a good nature walk, Loch Gruinart is a place that promises to leave an impression.
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Bruichladdich Distillery
Bruichladdich stands as a testament to the fact that Scotland's traditional whisky regions don't always follow the rules. Established in 1881, it came to life during a time when puffer-supplied coal offered a cleaner alternative to the local peat. This led to its unique mission: crafting the purest unpeated spirit imaginable. Even the renowned Alfred Barnard hints at this distinct approach. In his captivating 1885 exploration of Islay’s distilleries, Bruichladdich is the only one he doesn't mention as drying its malt with peat. It's a fascinating tidbit that sets the Laddie apart from its smoky neighbors. The distillery itself is located on the picturesque island of Islay, known for its breathtaking landscapes and rich history. Islay is often referred to as the "Queen of the Hebrides," and it's easy to see why. With its rugged coastlines, rolling hills, and friendly locals, it's a destination that captures the heart of every traveler. Visitors to Bruichladdich can not only enjoy a tour of the distillery but also indulge in tastings that highlight the unique flavors of their unpeated whiskies. It's an experience that combines the beauty of the island with the artistry of whisky-making, offering a memorable journey for both the seasoned enthusiast and the curious newcomer.